Charmed by Charms

The wearing of charms may have begun as a form of amulet, or talisman due to a belief that they ward off evil spirits, or bad luck. During the pre-historic period, jewellery charms would be made from shells, animal-bones and clay. Later charms were made out of gems, rocks, and wood.

Egyptian amulets

But it wasn’t until the Egyptian Age that we have evidence of Pharaohs being buried with elaborate gold and silver jewellery, embedded with precious and rare stones. It is in many of such tombs, that archaeologists rescued the first recognisable examples of charms and charm bracelets.

Christian charm

The first record of charms being used as a means of a symbol of one’s own belief was in Rome, where Christians, fearful of letting others know their own religious belief, used to carry small charms in the shape of a fish. This let other Christians know of their religious leaning.

First charm bracelet

Charm bracelets have been the subject of many trends. The first charm bracelets were worn by Assyrians, Babylonians, Persians, and Hittites and began appearing from 600 – 400 BC

Queen Victoria's love of charms 

Queen Victoria wore charm bracelets, that started a fashion among the European noble classes. She was instrumental to the growing popularity of charm bracelets, as she “loved to wear and give charm bracelets. When her beloved Prince Albert died, she even made “mourning” charms popular; lockets of hair from the deceased, miniature portraits of the deceased and charm bracelets carved in jet.

Chunky gold and silver chain bracelets with traditional heart shaped locks were adorned with different and significant charms.

Tiffany's iconic heart charm 

In 1889, Tiffany and Co. introduced their first charm bracelet — a link bracelet with a single heart dangling from it, a bracelet which is an iconic symbol for Tiffany today.

Charm bracelet research 

When I was a jewellery student, I collected jewellery books, whenever I could. I now have a pretty good collection. In 1989 I bought a new book, 'Ancestral Jewels' by Diana Scarisbrick. I discovered recently I was the first person to buy it !

In the book there is an interesting account of a charm bracelet worn by Queen Alexandra's, lady in waiting. The Marquise d'Hautpol collected charms recording events in court life and wore them on her bracelet, which is still in the Camoys family. One of the seven charms is a lovely diamond encrusted monkey which represents  the Portuguese Ambassador, the popular Marquis de Soveral, nicknamed the 'Blue monkey.' on account of his swarthy skin.

Edwardian charm bracelet hung with souvenirs of court life.

Diamond Monkey Charm - Portuguese Ambassador Marquis de Soveral 

Diamond Ball with two figures of eight - Symbol of good luck with Rubies and Sapphires 

Diamond Latin Cross

Mourning Pendant - from Queen Alexandra inscribed with the date of the King's death 10 May 1910

Coronation medal - 1902 personal gift from the King

Diamond Horse and Jockey -  Wearing the racing colours of Edward 7th

White Rose and Diamond ribbon - badge of the Duke of York 

Special Thanks to Diana for the information in 'Ancestral Jewels '

My childhood charm bracelet 

I was very close to my paternal granny; she gave me a charm bracelet and every year she collected a charm and added it to the bracelet. It has some really wonderful old charms on it. I adored it and I still treasure it today.

Catherine Hills 'Mixed Pod Cluster' Bracelets 

When I left the Royal College of Art in 1993, I set up business in Cockpit Arts, Holborn. I began making a small batch production collection, along side some one of a kind pieces. I also began to make very large charm Bracelets which I exhibited along side the smaller pieces.

These bracelets were chunky, weighty clustered full of silver pod charms .The charms have different textures and shapes. Mixing silver with oxidised silver, giving them a striking monochrome look.

Wedding charm bracelet and choker 

I made a special oxidised silver charm bracelet, with a matching choker necklace, for my wedding day in January 2001. I wanted to wear some of my work and I wanted to add some drama to the outfit. Here they are being worn by a model on an underwater shoot I did with the fabulous photographer Zena Holloway.

Zena Holloway shoots bracelets underwater 

It was a very memorable day watching her work and seeing the beautiful young woman, wearing my work, under the water. The resulting photographs are soft and really unlike my other images. I am happy to say, Zena has buit a very successful photography business; take a look.

Baby bracelet 

When my daughter was born in 2002, I made her a bracelet with several charms; here she is, modelling it.

Gold charm bracelets 

This was the image I used on my business cards, at the same time that Eve was born. It shows four of my large charm bracelets. Two of them are in silver and oxidised silver and the other two are 18ct gold. Sadly, its unlikely I will be able to make one again with the price of gold today. 

Everyday charm bracelets 

I realised that however much I loved making massive eye catching bracelets, I also needed to make a more commercial version, for my customers. A bracelet that was lighter, with less charms, that could be worn everyday. Here is the twisted link bracelet with seven charms. 

Twisted link bracelet with seven charms

This twisted link bracelet with seven charms has been very popular over the years and still is today, over twenty five years later. I have a customer that has bought this bracelet consistently, for gifts, for many years. 

I added another style of bracelet link and I have also added lots more seed pod charms to my collection over the years.

Here is the striped link bracelet which gives the bracelet a slightly different feel.

Pod charms inspired by nature 

My charms are all inspired by nature . The first charm I ever made was the 'round pod' charm made in 1993.

This is the last charm I added to my collection the, 'spotted teardrop' charm, made in 2015.

The bracelets can have just one charm per link, or a cluster of four charms, making it a bit bolder, but still an everyday piece. You can see how the different textures work so well together.

'Mixed Pod Cluster' Bracelet 

Here is Eve modelling the last, 'Mixed Pod Cluster' bracelet that I made to sell in my shop. It is the original design, with the original charms, including catkin, rounded pod and snowball charms, which I first made in the late 1990's. It was bought recently by a regular customer for his wife, as a gift, after their first son had been born. 

'Dream Catcher Feather and Pod Charm 'Bracelet

Here is the newest version of my charm bracelet in oxidised silver which is made using all my new charms including mimosa, corn and feather, first made in 2015. 

I also made a tiny version called 'Microcluster Charm' Bracelet. 

'Bee Mine charm' Bracelet 

In 2013 I was accepted to take part in the Goldsmiths Fair, which is a special event. I always make a new piece for the Goldsmith's application and this time I chose this charm bracelet. I had never applied for the Fair, with a charm bracelet, so I thought it was time. This is , 'Bee Mine Charm' Bracelet; the catalogue image taken by Richard Valencia. I sold it a few months later, to a lady who became a really supportive customer. It was one of my favourite pieces and it has special memories of a special time in my life.

 

This is the last charm bracelet I have made; a silver and oxidised silver version of, 'Bee Mine' I sold it in my shop and I still get real pleasure selling my larger work. I do not make many larger pieces, or one of a kind pieces any more, as I spend that time making commissions.

Happily I had an enquiry last week, to make an oxidised silver mixed pod cluster bracelet as a commission. Here it is before its put in its box and sent to its new home.

Here's hoping people are still charmed by my charms.