Ten places to visit from Montpellier

On my two month sabbatical in Montpellier I visited a few cities, towns, and villages in the area. Here are my top ten all within two and a half hours drive or train journey.

MARSEILLES

Well worth the 2.5hr hot car journey - Marseilles is the oldest city in France founded around 600 BC by the Greeks. It has been a trading port since ancient times, has the oldest chamber of commerce in France and claims to have 300 days of sunshine! 

I had a picture in my head of how it would be and never really had the desire to visit. We only went because it was half way between Montpellier and Nice where some old friends live.

I am so glad we did as it wasn't how I imagined - and it's become one of my favourite cities.

I spent most of the time in the arts district of 'Le Panier' which was absolutely wonderful, vibrant and picturesque. It is filled with cafes and independent boutiques selling crafts and you can often peek through windows into artist's studios as they work.

Le Panier is one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Marseille. It's winding, narrow streets are filled with graffiti and street art that tell stories about the area’s history and culture.

Street art has definitely made its home here and wherever you look murals, graffiti or ceramics decorate the walls. This was one of my favourites with my two best boys underneath.

The history of street art in Marseille began in the 1980's, a time when hip hop culture and graffiti spread from North America to Europe. It was mainly a form of youth rebellion against the social and political institutions of the time.

Over the years graffiti artists became an integral part of the city's urban fabric. During the 1990's and 2000's the city administration and general public began to recognise street art as an important part of local culture.

Immigration, racism and social equality are central themes in Marseille’s street art. The mix of cultures has created an innovative style that I felt really defined the city’s urban art scene.

Usually, I'm not a lover of graffiti, especially on historic buildings however, it can give so much character to an area and Marseille is the perfect example of this. I found so much joy walking through the city and discovering the street art. 

You may have heard of Marseille's famous soup - Savon de Marseille. I'm a huge fan - it's so satisfyingly chunky and brilliant at removing stains. Sadly, we didn't have time to visit the Musée du Savon, in the Vieux Port, but it's on my list for next time - you can personalise a bar and put your perfumer's nose to the test.

My father and I both share an interest in tribal art so I was thrilled when I stumbled across a wonderful tribal art dealer. My rusty Fresh was put to the test but with the help of a trusty pen and paper we struck a deal and I came away with two tribal masks - one from the Ivory Coast and the other from Bukina Faso. 

Marseille is so vibrant and a must to visit.

CARCASSONE

I've found that despite its size lots of people seem to have visited the historic hilltop town of Carcassonne in Languedoc. Famous for its medieval citadel, La Cité, Rolo loved exploring the walls which were build in Gallo-Roman times.

I'd recommend visiting Château Comtal, a 12th-century castle within the Cité and the well-preserved medieval fortress which is a UNESCO world heritage site complete with 3km of ramparts and 52 towers and gateways.

It is really lovely and well worth a visit but it is not as large as I has expected, so is great even if you only have a couple of hours to spare. You can walk around and explore the beautiful architecture, soak in the atmosphere and not have aching feet.

Carcassonne is famous for its cassoulet - a sumptuous stew and culinary legend in the region. We visited a 'La Jardin de la Tour' for dinner which was rated by a local and it didn't disappoint in terms of food and decor! 

Carcassonne's Cathédral Saint Michael is in the Languedoc Gothic style dating from the 13th century. It has very striking long stained glass windows.

I'd recommend where we stayed - 'La Maisonette Sur La Colline' or 'House on the Hill', just outside of Carcassonne. It has a pretty garden to relax in, it's pet-friendly and owner, Delphine is charming.

I prefer to stay somewhere quirky and characterful rather than smart and pristice and La Maisonette Sur La Colline perfectly fitted the bill. Here's Rolo posing in the doorway which I think he now considers his job!

The breakfast was spectacular and the dining room was painted a sunny yellow with the most beautiful vast ornate yellow plafonnier hanging above the table. I love these ceiling lights so much. I have a modest orange marble one hanging in our cloakroom back at home, another Ardingley find.

Carcassonne is an hour and forty minutes from Montpellier and if you can get a glimpse of its beauty at night, it's not to be missed.

BEZIERS

Beziers is located on a small cliff above the river Orb about 10km from the Mediterranean and about 75km from Montpellier. It is one of the oldest cities in France and the ancient Greek colony of Beziers dates from 575 BC - so not quite as old as Marseille.

My friend Francoise is an Architect and she had to see a flat in Beziers for a client so she asked if I would like to go with her. So I got to look around an old apartment which was for sale in the town before I spent the afternoon wandering around.

La Chapelle des Pénitents Bleus is a fantastic Gothic building. As soon as you enter it you are struck by the size of the paintings. On the alter wall there is impressive trompe-l'oeil mural representing the death of St Jerome.

But the most wonderful extraordinary bonus is the huge wooden sailing boat high on the wall opposite. It really is very dramatic and engaging such a beautiful old model. Oh how I would love to take that home for my wall, I would need a very large wall.

This olive tree was very old and glorious - another thing I would have loved to take home.

Vibrant festivals, particularly the Feria de Béziers, is a summer event that attracts thousands of visitors. This five-day festival is a celebration of bullfighting, music, dance and local culture, offering a unique glimpse into the region's traditions.

Bezier is known for trompe l'oeil frescos optical illusion facades. Many depict significant events or celebrates figures from Bezier's past.

As we were leaving to go home we stumbled on a shop belonging to an interior architect. It is going to be their office, I hope they do not change much it's perfect the way it is.

Beziers is a hidden gem in the heart of France's wine region - the perfect place to unwind, and soak up the its rich history and vibrant atmosphere, with a glass of local red or white in hand - what's not to like!?

ARLES

Just over an hour away from Montpellier is Arles, a city on the Rhône River. It's famed for inspiring the paintings of Van Gogh. Once a provincial capital of ancient Rome, Arles is also known for many remains from that era, including an amphitheatre (Les Arènes d'Arles), that now hosts plays, concerts and bullfights.

Yellow radiates from many of Van Gogh's must-loved paintings and the Yellow House was his home when he moved from Paris in 1888. I'd read that Van Gogh was mad about Arles and it didn't disappoint (sorry about the pun)! 'La Chambre à Coucher' with its bright colours to represent sleep or repose was painted here.

Built in 90 AD, the amphitheatre held over 20,000 spectators for chariot races and bloody hand-to-hand battles.

The amphitheatre can be visited all year round and there is a calendar of events throughout the year.

The building is spectacular and I couldn't help imagining how loud, thrilling and slightly scary it must have been when twenty thousand people were all crushed in watching a fight. I love this photo what a splendid curve around the amphitheatre.

This attractive side street with, a resting cat, would make a great painting. I guess that is how Van Gogh felt as he walked the streets.

The Church of St. Trophime is a Roman Catholic church and former cathedral. It was built between the 12th century and the 15th century, in the Romanesque architectural tradition. The stone work on the entrance is really fantastic.

Walking around I came across this house and it made me realise how much easier it would be for my birthstone inspired instagram if I lived in France. October Tourmaline is one of my favourite stones - pink, blue and green all together.

It was love at first sight when I spotted this fantastic sculpture in a doorway. I started to fantasise about living here for a few months each year and inspired by the artists that have trodden these streets, perhaps even giving painting a go.

A small place with an incredible heritage - Van Gogh painted over 300 paintings the year he lived here. Picasso was a frequent visitor and persuaded Gauguin to move here. Their time together, sometimes working side-by-side led to the creation of some of their most important work.

Arles is the perfect mix of buildings teeming with history - marshy countryside and unusual folklore - I think the ghosts of some of art's greatest painters have also left their mark.

Today Arles continues to play muse to artists and recently British urban painter Peter Brown from Bath, known as 'Pete the Street' captured the sunlight on honey-coloured stone synonymous with Arles.

PEZENAS

Forty five mins from Montpellier is the historic town of Pézenas, one of the best preserved medieval towns in the South of France. Over 30 buildings in the town are registered as Historical Monuments. One of the most interesting parts is the old town, once the refuge or ghetto of Jews, with brilliantly preserved narrow streets.

Pézenas is considered one of the most beautiful towns in the Occitanie region of France. Once the political centre of the États du Languedoc and the home of Parliament, the consul's palace (Hôtel des Consuls) stands on one of the main squares (Place Gambetta).

Pézenas has great visitor appeal with its magnificent old architecture and exceptional crafts. Sculptors, potters, cabinetmakers, glassblowers and so many others contribute to its rich heritage.

We had lunch in 'La Ripaille' and ate in the pretty courtyard where we got chatting to local ceramicist Yannick Le Bloat about our dogs and found out he had a small shop in rue Alfred Sabatier. 

Yannick has a shop and workshop combined, as I do, so it was nice to chat to someone with a similar working life. He creates brightly coloured ceramics, working in collaboration with a bronze-sculptor in Burkina Faso. Yannick decorates the bronze cats and dogs using a technique called millefliori - he has a beautiful spirit and was a joy to meet.

Pézenas has no shortage of artists’, designers’ and craftsmen’s stalls. The town’s policy favours the installation of these creators, with moderate rents, an approach that should be encouraged everywhere but it is not sadly. There was even a craft fair in this beautiful building (above) full of jewellery and craft made by French designers a bit like Chelsea Craft Fair, as it was.

Sadly, I wasn't able to indulge my historic French door obsession by visiting the Door Museum in rue Montmorency as its closed on Mondays. Master-carpenter Serge Ivorra preserves medieval doors and displays 17th century ironwork, keys, latches, door knockers and rare windows from the same period.

Pézenas is known for its more than 50 antique shops, which are sought out by connaisseurs throughout the year. But the town totally comes alive for two Sundays a year, when the streets are blocked off and thousands of shoppers peruse not only the existing shops, but over 150 additional vendors, flea-market style. Sadly I was not able to go to one of these markets - but maybe next time.

Pézenas has everything that interests me - antiques and collectables, good food, beautiful buildings and a vibrant art scene, with individual sole trader businesses. For anyone with similar interests this would be a perfect day out.

SETE

Sète, 40min from Montpellier, is one of the most beautiful fishing and trade ports in the Mediterranean. The walk from the train to the port was very pretty we passed a lovely park with fabulous architectural plants. I never tire of seeing avenues of French plane trees - the bark pattern is so beautiful and they are so stately.

Sète is surrounded by the sea, canals and Thau Lake and affectionately referred to as the "Venice of the Languedoc". Its reputation has grown over time, due to its peaceful atmosphere.

As with any vibrant port, Sète boasts a seemingly chaotic dock site, strewn with colourful ropes and lines, old marker buoys and rusty machinery. I really enjoyed wandering around the port, soaking in the atmosphere and smells.

Séte boasts some of the freshest seafood on the Med and has a reputation for gourmet cuisine but sadly we must have one of the only bad meals on offer! Still, we enjoyed watching the boats on the marina.

While we were wandering along the dock I saw something that brought a huge smile to my face - a boat with a live brass swing band. The musicians were all older men and couples were dancing together to the music, with people relaxing on chairs. I had to stop for a while - it was pure joy!

The colour blue is synonymous with the sea and whilst we were exploring we saw some lovely shades of it near the harbour. As we were leaving, Rolo paws'd in front of a beautiful door which was a dramatic shade of teal and, as I took a picture, I looked up to see the most beautiful building.

There in front of me was an apartment with the most gorgeous windows, iron work balcony and elaborate stone carving. I found myself fantasising, perhaps it could be my French studio! Luckily it was not for sale so the decision was taken out of my hands!

Heading back to the train station to go back to Montpellier I reflected on my day out with Jake in Sète. We both had such a lovely time together and it is one of the happiest trips of my stay. I will treasure this time together, as it's probably the only time I will get to be alone with him for such a long period of time.

LIMOUX

The city of Limoux is a two hour drive from Montpellier, the birthplace of great wines, including the Crémant de Limoux and the Blanquette de Limoux, the very first sparkling wine in history. Limoux, is a festive town with lots of attractions and activities for all ages.

We took a walk along the river Aude which was very pretty - Rolo had a lovely time but felt sad not to be able to frolic with another big dog he spotted on the opposite bank.

The carnival of Limoux is a traditional, almost religious carnival that takes place at the weekends from January to the end of March. It is accompanied by traditional music and dance under the medieval arches of the Place de la République, drawing you into a great whirlwind of colours and festivity.

The town was almost deserted and Rolo found more lovely doorways to shelter in from the baking hot midday sun. As we wandered around the quiet streets we stumbled across the most beautiful huge house for sale, with a fabulous walled garden that ran the length of one of the streets.

We fantasised about moving there and looked it up to discover it was filled with antique furniture and came complete with what looked like an old abandoned theatre. My husband is an actor and has always dreamed of opening his own theatre but it was already under offer.

Limoux is a place of two halves - it comes alive during carnival but for much of the year it is sleepy and relaxed.

AIGUES-MORTES

Aigues-Mortes is a must-see when visiting the Camargue. The town is 40min from Montpellier and as a bonus you get to see the beautiful wild ponies. It is very pretty, with its small main square whose fountains continuously flow with water. Visitors stop off at Place Saint-Louis to sample the town's culinary specialty: fougasse d'Aigues-Mortes, a brioche flavored with orange blossom.

You can feel yourself step back in time as you explore the towers and ramparts of Aigues-Mortes, built during the reign of Louis IX. You can walk along the 1,600m of fortified city walls, marked by majestic towers, such as the Tower of Constance.

The name "Aigues-Mortes" was derived from the Latin Aquae Mortuae, which means "dead water", or "stagnant water". The name comes from the marshes and ponds that surround the village (which has never had drinkable water).

As I walked around the streets at the heat of the day the scent of Jasmine on many of the buildings was heady.

I really loved the natural cafes and restaurants, free from fuss and modern paraphernalia, such a change from the horrid ugly cafes you see with menus outside with nasty coloured photos of fast food.

Rolo and I took a break to sit down on the walls, taking the opportunity to have some photos taken for my social media. The light was perfect and the backdrop pleasing. Rolo's coat was cut before we left but unfortunately the sun seems to have made it grow faster. I have been very mindful to keep him in the shade and give him lots of water.

In local folklore there is said to be a mythical horse called 'Lou Drapé' that walks around the ramparts of the city at night. He is said to take 50 to 100 children on his back and ride off and they are never seen again. Don't worry Rolo, it is still the day time you won't be carried away on horseback!

As we were leaving through the huge gates Rolo had a lie down to get a final look a the ancient town.

Aigues-Mortes is a great family destination ideal for combining cultural visits with trips to the countryside. Interestingly the water is rose pink and linked to the proliferation of microscopic algae variety called dunaliella salina. On the salt marshes of Aigues-Mortes the exploitation of pink shrimp (l'Artemia Salina) complements the salt producing activities.

MINERVE

The main bridge leading into the village of Minerve is closed to all passenger vehicles not owned by residents.

These days, where everyone drives even to nearby places, there was something exciting about having to park outside the town and walk in. The views across the landscape were really delightful.

Whilst I was walking around the town I noticed this lovely two story open fronted half house full of stuff. I had to stop myself going down and poking about to see what was inside. But I showed restraint for once!

Rolo takes the opportunity where he can to hide from shade so this pretty window was a perfect resting spot. 

Minerve welcomes you in a spectacular natural setting, between the gorges of Cesse and Brian. History buffs are well catered for, as are nature lovers. The village of Minerve is a charming maze of narrow alleys and cobbled streets, topped by a simple 12th century church.

We climbed up onto the cliff to a little restaurant for lunch to admire the view.

At the northern entrance of the village, you will find the remains of the Candela tower part of a medieval castle. From here, there is a wonderful view of Minerve and the impressive bridge that spans the gorge below. It is unspoiled and really charming, free from traffic and pollution - a fabulous afternoon out.

Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

Forty minutes from Montpellier is Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, another most beautiful village in France. Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is essentially a medieval village located on the Chemin de Saint-Jacques (Way of St James) part of the pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostella. It is situated in the 'Parc Naturel Régional du Haut-Languedoc' and surrounded by wonderful nature and high cliffs.

When you arrive in the village, you seem to go back in time as you walk the narrow streets and admire the charming houses. You discover the medieval treasures such as the Abbey of Gellone, a jewel of Languedoc Romanesque art, classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO

It was hot as usual so we stopped in the pretty square for a cold drink and Rolo had a little lie down on the steps in front of yet another doorway. Unfortunately he does not know that none of the birthstones featured each month on my social media are brown.

You cannot to fail to fall under its spell as you walk in the central square or along the little cobbled streets to the ruins of the castle.

The village has retained its medieval personality with old houses in amber stone, an ancient tower, and a shady square with a fountain and traditional plain trees. It sprawls organically along the Verdus stream, surrounded by cliffs, verdant with thyme, oak and pine trees. The prison tower is a vestige of the medieval village and still dominates.

It is home to numerous artists, many of whom may be found in their studios around the square.

Several little shops sell local and original products made of wood, cork or soap. You will also find some excellent olive oil, as the village of Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert used to be an olive oil producer. Half a century ago, the surrounding landscape was completely different. Until the 1940s, over 30,000 olive trees provided an important income to the villagers. However, a terrible frost in 1956 destroyed most of these ‘oliviers’, though now you will find some new producers.

We found a lady in a local shop willing to make us a fresh baguette sandwich with local ham, goats cheese and salad, which was totally delicious. Truthfully I never tire of a baguette, but if I had stayed in France any longer I would have looked like a baguette. Rolo was in heaven as he discovered a local sausage shop and the gentleman decided to let him have a taste - he had made a friend for life!

The drain pipes were so beautiful I have never seen the like they were ornate iron with green ceramic pipes - how I wish we had these back home.

‘Cardabelle’, or ‘Soleil des Herbes’ (Sun of the Weeds) as the local Larzac shepherds call it are hung on doors by farmers to protect their animals and bring luck. It’s also a natural weather forecaster: when the flower’s heart closes, rain is coming soon.

There was lots of running water flowing abundantly through the Verdus River, which isn’t always the case because of drought. The waterfall with the village and the abbey in the background was charming. And a bit further, on the corner with the Avenue Guillaume d’Orange, there was another smaller cascade.

A true paradise for walkers and nature lovers.

As we drove away from our time in this incredibly beautiful village the scenery was breathtaking and you pass the UNESCO-listed Pont du Diable. This bridge spans the Hérault in a majestic setting, heralding the entrance to the spectacular Gorges de l'Hérault.

My trips around the area of Montpellier were all such fun and all so different I feel so grateful I could accompany my son Jake and bring Rolo to explore. I loved France before but I think now I love it even more.